Such a different kind of time travel
Doctor Who had the TARDIS, Marty McFly had the DeLorean. You can easily get by with a plastic or inflatable hand-powered canoe. Getting from the present day to the Celtic period in one day sounds like science fiction, but anything is possible on the Berounka. The meeting point is in Roztoky near Křivoklát, where you can easily get to by train on the Beroun-Rakovník line. Exactly where you start depends on your choice of rental company. Prehistoric times are only 20 kilometres away.
The journey begins in the era of internal combustion engines in two-wheeled vehicles, continues through the early modern period to the Middle Ages and ends in the Iron Age, when the Celts farmed our territory. Nothing come for free, and this trip is no exception. The water in the river on this stretch is much more like lazy. Warm up your muscles before you go, you won’t just let the paddle fall out of your hand.
From the present to the Middle Ages
Before you get into the boat and push off the shore, walk about 2 kilometres to Křivoklát. In order not to be the first to disrupt space-time, visit the Motorcycle Museum in the outer bailey. Then head to the castle, where you will be guided through its history from the Middle Ages to the present day. You will see the medieval prison, where the famous alchemist Edward Kelley used to held under lock and key and the chair where our first Czechoslovak president used to sit. But then it’s time to head downstream into prehistory.
Until Žloukovice, the area around the river is sparsely populated, but boredom is definitely not awaiting you along the way. Just 9 kilometres of sailing takes you back to the time when the English corsair Francis Drake was the second man to circumnavigate the globe. The Hamous farm in Zbečno was built at exactly that time. Land your time machine at the Riviera camp site and, after some refreshments, set off to explore this timbered farmhouse. Behind the bridge you will find one more option for recharging your batteries, refreshments under the bridge.
And then from the Middle Ages to the Iron Age
Normally we would never recommend closing your eyes during a boat trip, but right at the exit of Zbečno it’s not a completely stupid idea. You will have to sail under the conveyor bridge of the still active quarry. So watch out for small debris and dust. But open them now and look ahead. The only weir on this route awaits you (if you started in Roztoky under the bridges) and it is also passable. So pick up speed so you don’t make a mistake with the crown.
From Žloukovice to Nižbor the water does not flow much. You’re gonna have to work hard. The reason is the high weir in Nižbor, above which you will eventually end your journey. At the confluence with Habrový potok brook, hand over the time machine and head to the local château with its café and exhibition on Celtic culture. Just after Nižbor there was an important oppidum Stradonice. You will be brought back to the present by an excursion to the Nižbor glassworks Rückl, where statuettes of the Czech Lion film award have been produced for many years.
