Before you set sail
This isn’t a trip for people who bring their own pillows and have a soft spot for silk. And that’s exactly why this place is perfect for anyone who’s ever had a taste for paddling. Ideally in the rain, with a wet tent and some rum to warm up. Three days, seventeen weirs, two sore buttocks, and countless reasons to leave city life behind and opt instead for a tent, a sleeping bag, and the lullaby of the frogs.
Navigability? We’ll see. In the summer, there’s less water in the Sázava River than a debt collector has empathy, so on the last day you might end up walking more than you paddle. But who cares – as long as you have a paddle and at least one dry T-shirt. Before every weir, check what lies ahead. Boating Navigation is here to help – an indispensable app that knows when to go with the flow and when to pull against it.
The route starts in Sázava, where you can choose a camp-site based on the rental shop. The Bisport team is staying at the Sázavský ostrov camp-ground. The Sambas and kayakers from Lodě Jakubec are staying at the Pod Vrbou camp-ground. And while you’re here, why not pop over to the Sázava Monastery? It is ruled by Saint Prokop – the patron saint of the entire Sázava region. One part is administered by the church, the other by the state. In the first one, you’ll tour the church and crypt; in the second, a mobile app inspired by the game Kingdom Come will guide you through. Yep, that’s where the filmmakers shot the first episode.
Day 1: From monastery bells to river baths
Today’s destination is Zlenice – or rather, the opposite bank of the river, where the Senohraby swimming pool is located. Before you get there, stop for lunch. At Pady’s by the Hvězdonice weir, the smell of meat fills the air, soup bubbles in the pot, and there’s a sparkle in people’s eyes that you won’t find in an office. The food is hearty and served with a view of paddlers, who are either capsizing or celebrating a victory.
Just a little more whitewater adventure in the rapids below the Poddubí weir, and then a swimming pool will peek out at you – just like from The Capricious Summer. A swimming pier, a bookshelf, a ping-pong table, a playground, restrooms that aren’t afraid to be clean, and showers with a water heater, so the hot water isn’t endless.
Day 2: Between two castles
The river will calm down a bit the next day. The meanders are straightening out, there are more and more weirs with hydroelectric power plants, and the water is often more like a calm stream than rapids. That means one thing: both the stern and bow paddlers are working hard. But even that has its own meditative beauty.
In Čerčany, you’ll encounter the first of two weirs, which are often impassable due to low water levels. Boating Navigation will show you the easiest route to take. Next up is Poříčí nad Sázavou. The red façade of St. Havel’s Church shines like a beacon on a tree, and behind it stands a bridge that will transport you to a time when logs, rather than paddlers, floated down the Sázava River.
You have several options for food. While in Městečko, stop by the Antonín Barták Pubfor a duck leg and other pub classics. The Bouda Café and Bistro awaits you in Nespeky. Cupcakes, mini cakes, cream rolls, sweet dreams. But the real gem is elsewhere…
… Ledce Bistro. Forget about fried cheese and a hot dog. This is an oasis of flavour, style, and tranquillity. It was established in an old barn next to St. Bartholomew’s Church, where Katka Kerhelová’s family restored a dilapidated farmhouse. A courtyard decorated with flowers, the aroma of premium coffee, and food that tastes great even when eaten while wearing water shoes. Just a heads-up – reservations are required, or you’ll miss out.
Before you reach your destination, take a detour to the ruins of Zbořený Kostelec Castle. It’s quite a climb, but what a view! You’ll see the river valley and the destination of today’s journey -Týnec nad Sázavou. You’ll be spending the night here at the Týnec Camp-ground. For dinner, head to the Příběh bistro, and if you still have some energy left and it’s still light out, check out Týnec Castle too. This Gothic gem features a tower with a view, a Romanesque rotunda, and bats in the attic.
Day 3: At the heart of folk songs
The final part is either the highlight or a hard lesson. It depends on the weather. You might just find yourself spending more time poling or tracking than actually paddling on this stretch. Unless it rains as Grandpa Komárek says, there won’t be enough water. Especially on the final stretch of the Golden River. Check the water level online and listen to updates from the rental shop. If it doesn’t work out, just call it quits in Týnec.
But if possible, you’re in for a spectacular natural finale. Beyond Týnec, the river begins to cut its way into the valley. The road fades away, the houses disappear. The hikers’ cabins cling to the rocks like swallows’ nests. Nothing but silence and water among the trees. No one speaks here – just paddles quietly.
Stop by Žampach and take a walk to Kocourská Gorge. A stone viaduct arches over it – one of the tallest in the country and in Europe. The legendary Posázavský Pacifik railway line runs through here. Trains run on the tracks between Prague and Čerčany. This is perhaps where the entire tramp mythology was born.
Near the bridge, you can arrange a tour of one of the tunnels – St. Joseph’s, St. Anthony of Padua’s, or St. Wenceslas’s. The last one hides fluorescent ore and an underground via ferrata. Access is restricted to those 18 and older and daredevils who have their own safety gear and life insurance.
And then just a quiet arrival at the destination. Pikovice Campground. End of the cruise.Saying goodbye to the boat, but not to the river. At the U Kelímka snack bar, there’s guitar music in the evening and songs by the Nedvěd brothers are playing. The footbridge will take you across the river to the train station, where you can catch a train back to reality. If you want to stick around a little longer, head over to Zelená rokle for a beer – a backpackers’ pub where time doesn’t run according to a schedule.
